2021 “Berryish” Raw Pu-erh Tea, Old Trees

The material for these cakes comes from 300–500-year-old trees and was fired in a high-heat “green” style. Despite that, the tea has always leaned more toward an unusually vivid, expressive sheng rather than a green tea.

In 2021 we pressed part of this material into 200 g cakes to observe how a tight, high-heat shaqing (杀青, Shāqīng) would affect long-term aging of genuine old-tree leaves. There’s an opinion among seasoned pu-erh drinkers that “overheating maocha prevents proper aging,” and that “modern high-heat shaqing kills the old pu-erh school.”

What can I say after 4.5 years of storage — the cakes are aging beautifully.

Ancient assamica material (wild trees behave differently) continues to transform in a very interesting way — everything else comes down to taste and preference.

What it becomes in 10 years is hard to predict, but right now this “berryish” sheng, in terms of density and depth of flavor, is in no way inferior to its brothers from the old pu-erh school. Yes, the classic shengs Reserve’21 and Reserve’24 from the same farm are softer, calmer, more traditional. But this one is brighter — and definitely deserves attention.

Organoleptics.

The signature berries typical of Thai old trees are all here: blackcurrant, strawberry, sea buckthorn. One can also easily pick out barberry, apples… and plum.

The sweet sandalwood and teak woodiness I adore in shengs is still in its early stage here. But it’s already present, balancing with a firm, Bulang-like bitterness. At one point in the session it reminded me of a gaba-sheng I drank several years ago — probably because of that newly emerged hint of plumminess.

The aftertaste is dense and refreshing: birch sap, fresh-cut twig astringency, apples, and a deep returning sweetness rising from the bitterness.

The effect is strong and uplifting — the tea takes hold quickly and stays long. It feels even more potent than its Reserve siblings.

Conclusion: a bright, multifaceted, powerful, heady tea. Not for the faint of heart, but for true sheng pu-erh people — it can bite with bitterness, but has plenty of strength, character, and flavor.

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